The paints are one of the key elements in our hobby. On them it should be focused more attention of a model, because it is thanks to them that we can determine the success of a model. Modeling paints are solvent-based synthetic substances that do not attack the plastic, usually sold in glass jars containing an average of 10-18 ml. Let's just say that the relation quantity / price of the pigments is certainly exciting, so you should put some care to keep them: in particular must be avoided to keep the pots in a place too hot to close them please make sure to clean the edges with a little 'paper to remove the paint and dried may be blocking the stopper, and finally add a few drops from time to time dell'apposito thinner to slow the normal process of drying. There are numerous manufacturers of pigments Modeling, and fortunately in recent years the range available to us have increased substantially so as to minimize the need for mixing different shades to achieve the most accurate colors. They are divided into two major families: the enamels and acrylics.

Glazes: These paints are characterized by a low cost, by a remarkable ease of use (especially suitable for less experienced modelers) and a long life. Notes negative reside in the bad odor that issue and not exciting finesse that tends to hide many details. This defect is accentuated when the paint is then stretched with the use of the brush rather than the fundamental airbrush. Among the manufacturers of enamels remember Molak and Humbrol, real Deans of our hobby! With their paints have become the bones of thousands modellsti, because some are readily available 'everywhere, even in stationery. Instead the more modern Model Master, much finer and faithful, and Xtracolor whose tints are subjected to careful study of history to achieve the highest fidelity in the rendering.

The acrylic paints acrylics have a much higher purchase price, but the extreme delicacy of the final layer combined with an odor much more bearable, they do prefer to glaze. Although these are less aggressive on the nose, recent studies have shown that also contain substances that tend to persist once inhaled into the lungs having a potentially carcinogenic that is why I always recommend the use of a mask to protect respiratory system and to operate in a well ventilated as already mentioned in previous post "Modeling and Health". In addition, the acrylic does not require a specific diluent, and can be "stretched" with water (preferably distilled) or ethyl alcohol, as used for the liqueurs, but do not recommend the use of common alcohol red (it could alter the tint of color) relegating its use as a solvent for cleaning brushes or airbrushes because of its convenience. Among the brands that produce these paints remember Gunze-Sangyo, the Tamy, the Life Color and Mister Kit

After this brief but crucial distinction, one can say that after writing all kinds of color need at least 10 hours for its complete drying. The modeler little patient, who can not wait for the right moment to handle the model painted could leave the unsightly "fingerprints" on the surface, or rigarla or alter the draft. For the same reason you should wait before passing another coat of color, otherwise the accession of the imperfect with the presence of bubbles or orange peel effects. For both families exist then paints the finishing gloss, semi-gloss or mat. My advice is to use pigmentations glossy external surfaces in order to promote adhesion of subsequent decals, although the latter processing times are getting longer, reaching even to wait 12-14 hours before the model is workable. To be successful you must also prepare a layer of ground on which the paint can cling Sadly for these operations the use of the airbrush is strongly recommended because the paint is spread out evenly and without lumps. Models neophyte is still preliminary use of the good old brush, and even if with limitations is possible to reach satisfactory results, just follow the nine rules that I will now explain.

• Use good brushes, for a good brush is not never spend too much!
• Stir well before use colors, waving the box for long.
• Never use colors that are too dense and do not ever lay a hand-colored liquid on a more dense: it could crack and fall off gradually.
• Apply light colors first, then dark colors.
• Paint holding the arm on a work plan and challenged the not too far from the brush bristles.
• In implementing the camouflage, paint the spots on the paint thoroughly with a soft pencil.
• If you need to mask the areas where the color should not be passed, to adhere the tape a couple of times on the back of his hand to limit the adhesive power: punishment possible detachment of the layer of paint underneath.
• He never painted against, but still along the edge of the tape to prevent it from forming steps of paint.
• Do not overdo the amount of color. It 'better to draw more coats to achieve the desired result rather than spend a lot of those who leave see signs of strokes.

Of course this little handbook must be respected to the letter, but must be taken as a guideline for not hitting in the classic mistakes of beginners. With training each model acquires a certain knowledge of the facts becoming more and more the master of the technique also adapts to any type of situation. In the next post I will discuss the Federal Standard Color, ie the reference tables on global dyed in various aeronautical use. Hello and good model! Starfighter.